Comments on: Four Post Lift by Dannmar; D-7 Do-it-Yourself and Review http://www.legendarycollectorcars.com The car life style and the people, the activities and the cars that make the legends we remember. Sun, 25 Jul 2010 16:04:17 -0400 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.1 hourly 1 By: rfleener http://www.legendarycollectorcars.com/garage/not-every-project-is-a-car/four-post-lift-unloading/comment-page-1/#comment-8784 rfleener Thu, 24 Sep 2009 21:20:36 +0000 http://legendarycollectorcars.com/?page_id=1230#comment-8784 Craig, great comments. You did your homework and it paid off! I have been using my lift for six months or so now and it has saved me time, money and a lot of grief. There have been many projects I just would have never taken on or been unable to complete without it. Thanks for let me and the other reads know about your experiences. Anyone else out there put one of these up themselves? Craig, great comments. You did your homework and it paid off! I have been using my lift for six months or so now and it has saved me time, money and a lot of grief. There have been many projects I just would have never taken on or been unable to complete without it. Thanks for let me and the other reads know about your experiences. Anyone else out there put one of these up themselves?

]]> By: Craig http://www.legendarycollectorcars.com/garage/not-every-project-is-a-car/four-post-lift-unloading/comment-page-1/#comment-8783 Craig Thu, 24 Sep 2009 21:06:47 +0000 http://legendarycollectorcars.com/?page_id=1230#comment-8783 I just install a Dannmar D7 that I purchased from gesusa.com. Thank you for the excellent write up. I have a couple things to add to make it easier for others. The first was when I picked up the lift at the terminal (using a car trailer), I didn’t know which end of the lift was the end with the pump. I knew I wanted the pump to be near the shop door. Sure enough I got it backwards and I had to rotate the lift after I un-wrapped it. It would have been easier if I had loaded the lift onto the trailer the correct way as it would be installed in the shop (pump at the front of the trailer. In order to know which end was the pump end, at each end of the lift is a square end cap made with angle iron. One end will have a brace that extends about 45 degrees to the mounting hole of the pump, this end is the end that I would of liked it to be at the front of the trailer. Through the cardboard and wrap, you can determine which end has the extra brace. Before I had gotten the D7, I had gesusa send me a copy of the instruction sheet to prepare for the installation. This helped a lot. I was able to mark the shop floor for the placement of the lift, and get to know how to build it. It save me a lot of time so I didn’t need to have my friends wait while I was figuring out the instructions. The instructions they emailed me was not the current instructions so there was a couple things different. One major difference, the emailed instruction said that I needed 60” of clearance, the instructions that came with the lift said 120”, which I needed 120” (not a big deal since I knew I needed 120” from the online write ups). Another nice thing about the older emailed instructions was that the pictures were much clearer, especially connecting the cables. So I would recommend getting the emailed instructions, even if you do not plan on reading up before the lift arrives. I found that assembling the lift was not bad at all. I was expecting it to be a lot harder. I had an engine hoist, two 1000# moving dollies ($10 Harbor Freight), and a heavy chain to wrap around the lift. I had lifted the end of the lift that was closest to the truck with the engine hoist and put a dolly under it, I then lifted the end at the back of the trailer and pulled on the hoist so that the lift would roll out until the end of the lift with the dolly was at the edge of the trailer. I lowered the engine hoist so that end was on the dolly on the ground. I then raised the end that was still on the trailer and rolled the lift past the trailer and lower it back onto the dolly. It wasn’t bad at all to remove it from the trailer using this method and I did it by myself, with no scares. By myself, I unwrapped, had the four posts up, the end rails near the posts, and the ramps in the middle of the posts on the dollies ready so when I had two friends over, it took less than 3 hours to set it up and run. I could have done it with only two of us, but 3 people made it a lot easier. I am not a strong guy with a bad knee, so I was a little worried that it was going to be too heavy to set up, but it was not. I just install a Dannmar D7 that I purchased from gesusa.com. Thank you for the excellent write up. I have a couple things to add to make it easier for others. The first was when I picked up the lift at the terminal (using a car trailer), I didn’t know which end of the lift was the end with the pump. I knew I wanted the pump to be near the shop door. Sure enough I got it backwards and I had to rotate the lift after I un-wrapped it. It would have been easier if I had loaded the lift onto the trailer the correct way as it would be installed in the shop (pump at the front of the trailer. In order to know which end was the pump end, at each end of the lift is a square end cap made with angle iron. One end will have a brace that extends about 45 degrees to the mounting hole of the pump, this end is the end that I would of liked it to be at the front of the trailer. Through the cardboard and wrap, you can determine which end has the extra brace.

Before I had gotten the D7, I had gesusa send me a copy of the instruction sheet to prepare for the installation. This helped a lot. I was able to mark the shop floor for the placement of the lift, and get to know how to build it. It save me a lot of time so I didn’t need to have my friends wait while I was figuring out the instructions. The instructions they emailed me was not the current instructions so there was a couple things different. One major difference, the emailed instruction said that I needed 60” of clearance, the instructions that came with the lift said 120”, which I needed 120” (not a big deal since I knew I needed 120” from the online write ups). Another nice thing about the older emailed instructions was that the pictures were much clearer, especially connecting the cables. So I would recommend getting the emailed instructions, even if you do not plan on reading up before the lift arrives.

I found that assembling the lift was not bad at all. I was expecting it to be a lot harder. I had an engine hoist, two 1000# moving dollies ($10 Harbor Freight), and a heavy chain to wrap around the lift. I had lifted the end of the lift that was closest to the truck with the engine hoist and put a dolly under it, I then lifted the end at the back of the trailer and pulled on the hoist so that the lift would roll out until the end of the lift with the dolly was at the edge of the trailer. I lowered the engine hoist so that end was on the dolly on the ground. I then raised the end that was still on the trailer and rolled the lift past the trailer and lower it back onto the dolly. It wasn’t bad at all to remove it from the trailer using this method and I did it by myself, with no scares.

By myself, I unwrapped, had the four posts up, the end rails near the posts, and the ramps in the middle of the posts on the dollies ready so when I had two friends over, it took less than 3 hours to set it up and run. I could have done it with only two of us, but 3 people made it a lot easier.

I am not a strong guy with a bad knee, so I was a little worried that it was going to be too heavy to set up, but it was not.

]]> By: rfleener http://www.legendarycollectorcars.com/garage/not-every-project-is-a-car/four-post-lift-unloading/comment-page-1/#comment-6842 rfleener Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:32:08 +0000 http://legendarycollectorcars.com/?page_id=1230#comment-6842 Jim, I found the dimensions provided to be very helpful but if you have any questions don't hesitate to contact the Dannmar folks. I found them to be very responsive. You can find the contact info on our Sponsors page. Jim, I found the dimensions provided to be very helpful but if you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact the Dannmar folks. I found them to be very responsive. You can find the contact info on our Sponsors page.

]]> By: Jim http://www.legendarycollectorcars.com/garage/not-every-project-is-a-car/four-post-lift-unloading/comment-page-1/#comment-6824 Jim Thu, 16 Jul 2009 18:59:25 +0000 http://legendarycollectorcars.com/?page_id=1230#comment-6824 This was really helpful! I am looking into a lift now D7 vs. D7x and how to get it delivered and in the garage etc. I have 11ft ceilings in my garage and would like to park my GTO above my Chevy Avalanche. I was looking at the D7x to have the width for the vehicle under (not a daily driver). I believe the D7x can raise higher and the extra width will help with a truck under. Are the measurements published fairly accurate? This was really helpful! I am looking into a lift now D7 vs. D7x and how to get it delivered and in the garage etc. I have 11ft ceilings in my garage and would like to park my GTO above my Chevy Avalanche. I was looking at the D7x to have the width for the vehicle under (not a daily driver). I believe the D7x can raise higher and the extra width will help with a truck under. Are the measurements published fairly accurate?

]]> By: rfleener http://www.legendarycollectorcars.com/garage/not-every-project-is-a-car/four-post-lift-unloading/comment-page-1/#comment-3201 rfleener Mon, 30 Mar 2009 11:38:59 +0000 http://legendarycollectorcars.com/?page_id=1230#comment-3201 Tom, your comments and thoughts are right on. The D7 is wide enough to take any car on the road as far as I know. The D7-X is more for trucks and wider vehicles. I actually have to be more careful putting my C5 Corvette on the lift than the other cars because of the side mirrors. They stick out so far it is easy to hit one on a post. I almost bought the D7-X because of the extra width. I thought, like you that it would make it easier to get a car on and off the lift. However, when I laid the dimensions out on the garage floor I realized that the lift posts would take up a larger "footprint" in the garage and be extremely close to the outside wall. I wanted to make sure I had room to walk around the outside of the posts when the car was on the lift and on the ground. If you have lots of room in your garage and have really big vehicles then consider the D7-X; if not stay with the D-7. Also consider giving Rudy Muro, Sales Manager at GES a call. He was very helpful to me. His contact info is 1-800-261-7729 or rmuro@gesusa.com. Tom, your comments and thoughts are right on. The D7 is wide enough to take any car on the road as far as I know. The D7-X is more for trucks and wider vehicles. I actually have to be more careful putting my C5 Corvette on the lift than the other cars because of the side mirrors. They stick out so far it is easy to hit one on a post. I almost bought the D7-X because of the extra width. I thought, like you that it would make it easier to get a car on and off the lift. However, when I laid the dimensions out on the garage floor I realized that the lift posts would take up a larger “footprint” in the garage and be extremely close to the outside wall. I wanted to make sure I had room to walk around the outside of the posts when the car was on the lift and on the ground. If you have lots of room in your garage and have really big vehicles then consider the D7-X; if not stay with the D-7. Also consider giving Rudy Muro, Sales Manager at GES a call. He was very helpful to me. His contact info is 1-800-261-7729 or rmuro@gesusa.com.

]]> By: Tom Brna http://www.legendarycollectorcars.com/garage/not-every-project-is-a-car/four-post-lift-unloading/comment-page-1/#comment-3193 Tom Brna Mon, 30 Mar 2009 01:28:03 +0000 http://legendarycollectorcars.com/?page_id=1230#comment-3193 How wide is the Talledega? The largest vehicles I would be lifting are a 1956 Buick Century and a 1969 Ford Galaxie 500. I was wondering if I might be better off to purchase the model D7-X which is wider by about a foot than the D7. Do you think the D7 is wide enough for these vehicles? The pics of your Talledega look like the width is comparable to the Galaxie, which I believe is wider than the Buick. On second thought, a wider lift would help while backing onto it, but might be a hindrance accessing the car from the side to work on it. What is your opinion? Thanks. Tom Brna How wide is the Talledega? The largest vehicles I would be lifting are a 1956 Buick Century and a 1969 Ford Galaxie 500. I was wondering if I might be better off to purchase the model D7-X which is wider by about a foot than the D7. Do you think the D7 is wide enough for these vehicles? The pics of your Talledega look like the width is comparable to the Galaxie, which I believe is wider than the Buick. On second thought, a wider lift would help while backing onto it, but might be a hindrance accessing the car from the side to work on it. What is your opinion? Thanks.

Tom Brna

]]> By: rfleener http://www.legendarycollectorcars.com/garage/not-every-project-is-a-car/four-post-lift-unloading/comment-page-1/#comment-3184 rfleener Sun, 29 Mar 2009 13:43:23 +0000 http://legendarycollectorcars.com/?page_id=1230#comment-3184 Bill, good comment. At another location I actually had a flat bed wrecker pick up an assembled lift out of my garage and transport it about a mile to another location without disassembly. I would not recommend this and I bet the manufacture would not either but it worked. Moved two of them that way. Needed to remove the top caps to get them out through the garage door and then put them back on. This worked because they were the portable types that had the optional wheels that allow you to move it around your garage. I also found this feature very handy when I needed more room at one end of the lift or the other. It was a little scary at first to think the lift was not bolted down to the floor but I have now become use to it and it does not bother me and the manufacturer actually recommends not bolting the model I have to the floor. Bill, good comment. At another location I actually had a flat bed wrecker pick up an assembled lift out of my garage and transport it about a mile to another location without disassembly. I would not recommend this and I bet the manufacture would not either but it worked. Moved two of them that way. Needed to remove the top caps to get them out through the garage door and then put them back on. This worked because they were the portable types that had the optional wheels that allow you to move it around your garage. I also found this feature very handy when I needed more room at one end of the lift or the other. It was a little scary at first to think the lift was not bolted down to the floor but I have now become use to it and it does not bother me and the manufacturer actually recommends not bolting the model I have to the floor.

]]> By: Bill Cowan http://www.legendarycollectorcars.com/garage/not-every-project-is-a-car/four-post-lift-unloading/comment-page-1/#comment-3183 Bill Cowan Sun, 29 Mar 2009 13:08:30 +0000 http://legendarycollectorcars.com/?page_id=1230#comment-3183 I have a 4 post lift and I found is to have a flat bed wrecker pickup the lift at the freight co. then the flatbed can back right up to the garage door and place the lift where you need it. that is if your garage door is wide enough i have a 14ft open on my garage just a thought I have a 4 post lift and I found is to have a flat bed wrecker pickup the lift at the freight co. then the flatbed can back right up to the garage door and place the lift where you need it. that is if your garage door is wide enough i have a 14ft open on my garage just a thought

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